A haunting ululating call floating through the breeze. The fresh taste of salt spray against my lips. Golden sunshine on my skin. Brilliant blue and white houses against a backdrop of green and ochre. I came to Marmaris in Turkey hoping for some sunshine and a respite from London’s chilly autumn. What I found was a land rich in history and natural beauty, welcoming smiles and groaning tables of delicious food. I can’t wait to go back for more!
I returned to Turkey thanks to Go To Turkey UK, after winning Best Travel Blog in their #TakeMetoTurkey competition. After my whirlwind, incredible tour of part of the country in 2014, I was now to visit Marmaris for the first time, in the south-west of Turkey. Packed with visitors during the summer months, I was curious to see what it would be like in quieter times. So how did I find it? Heavenly. From the nearly empty golden sands to the beautiful blue skies, Mother Nature smiled kindly on my friend Emma and I during our time there. I could tell this from our very first morning, when I woke early and pushed aside the curtains in our beautiful suite at Elegance Hotel International Marmaris to see this gorgeous sunrise over the bay, straight in front of our balcony.
Our first day was to be action-packed, so after soaking in that sunrise we were soon whisked off to our first stop at Marmaris Castle. The Castle has an ideal location right on the waterfront for panoramic views over the town and the bay.
I learnt that there have been fortifications on the spot for over 5,000 years! The style of the Castle now dates back to the Ottoman Empire, as it is thought that Suleyman the Magnificent reconstructed it in 1522. The Castle was badly bombed during World War I and after painstaking work was reopened in 1991.
Looking down into one of the town’s marinas and the waterfront
Inside you can stroll the walls, taking in those fantastic views, before ducking down into the cellars and cool stone rooms. Here you can see the Castle’s treasure trove – a full museum of art and artifacts from around the area, dating back the length of its human civilisation. From amphorae to jewellery and weapons, I was fascinated by the variety and how well-preserved many of the pieces were.
I loved the shape of the castle battlements
We headed down from the Castle to the marina, and I tried my best not to get distracted by all the beautiful colour against the white-washed walls. My efforts were futile – the Old Town of Marmaris is just ridiculously photogenic!
Down at sea-level we boarded a launch for a whizz around the bay. Marmaris is built on a long curving beach tucked into a very sheltered bay. Everywhere we looked there were people out enjoying the sunshine and light breeze, from teeny kids in their sailboats to fishermen and big launches.
Our boat came from the one teeny empty space – which required a lot of careful navigation out of!
Some of the beachfront hotels
Emma and I enjoying the sun up the front
Looking back towards Içmeler, the next town around the bay from Marmaris
I love getting out on the water – river, lake or sea most of all. As we hummed along the gentle waves, I relished the taste of salt spray on my lips and an increasingly stiff breeze in my hair. With the gorgeous sunshine it was perfect boating weather! We played spot-the-marina, pulled briefly into the peaceful lee of an island, and watched kids in Optimists battle the wind.
Back on dry land we were definitely getting peckish after all that exertion. We headed to Nil Balik, one of the oldest waterfront restaurants in Marmaris and a firm favourite with the locals. There it was almost all fish – fresh and delicious and my favourite!
Table with an exceptional view
We started with mezze appetisers – my favourite was the aubergine and also the sea weed and garlic. Then came fish after fish, including sea bass and my pick, the local groper simply salt-fried. It was so fresh and flaked gorgeously off the fork – divine.
Super cute brothers!
Satiated, we hopped in the car and took a brief drive up the valley to Dalyan river for a very different boat ride. Here, we were riding in long low river boats, which tackled the extremely strong current as we headed up-river.
Boarding our boat
Possibly the most stylish captain ever
The river is famous for its clarity. Coming from New Zealand, I’ve seen my fair share of beautiful rivers, but I was still astounded at the glass-like waters – they were unbelievably clear!
River-side dining with a difference…
Just stunning!
Back at our hotel, Emma and I donned fluffy white bathrobes and wandered to the spa where we were treated to a Turkish hammam and then massage.
Super excited for hammam!
For those who have not had the traditional Turkish bath – it may be the most thorough scrub down you will ever experience. Lying on a long stone plinth, I was bathed in warm water then exfoliated to within an inch of my life. Next came my favourite part, as a large bag somewhat like a pillowcase was filled with bubbles and rubbed all over my body. It’s kind of like a cross between a gentle pillow-fight and a bubble bath, and it’s delightful! Next up was a rinse – I was treated to a cold scoop of water in-between the warm – and then we switched to a dry room for massage. I don’t often get massages, but every time I do I wonder why that is. This was possibly the best I’ve ever had, especially on my tired runner’s legs. And I just about drifted off at the end – always the sign of a good massage.
But there wasn’t much time to sleep – our final outing was to see the streets of Old Marmaris at night. While not many of the bars were open at this time of year, it didn’t matter to me. I was too mesmerised by the beauty of the alleyways at night – and the hundreds of cats haunting them!
As we sat in a waterfront cafe at the end of the night listening to a talented guitar and flute combo playing modern Turkish music I reflected on the amazing day we’d just had. Little did I know another action-packed day would shortly dawn – more soon!
For more Marmaris check out my video snapshot and other posts here!
Have you been to Marmaris? What was your favourite part of my first day there?
Linking up for Travel Tuesday with Bonnie, Lauren and Courtney
Follow
My stay in Marmaris was in association with Go to Turkey UK and the Marmaris Municipal Authority but all opinions are my own – and I’d return in a heartbeat!
