Whether you’re sailing out of Split to explore the beautiful Croatian islands close by, or hopping along the coast to Dubrovnik and beyond, make sure you save some time to explore this fascinating city. Originally designed as the retirement palace for the Roman emperor Diocletian, today its narrow alleys are a mix of tourist spots, restaurants, and living history. Here’s my favourite spots!
Breakfast within the stone walls
We were charmed by this sunny courtyard, home to the cute little cafe Galerija. I loved that all the food was fresh and organic, and it was pretty easy to explain my lactose-intolerance and receive a delicious mushroom omelette. If we hadn’t had so many places to explore, I think we could have sat and savoured the atmosphere for hours!
Taste fresher than fresh at the markets
We explored two markets, where the locals were definitely out in force doing their shopping. The gorgeous fresh fruit and vegetables on display at the Green Market, just outside the city walls, had me salivating – and admiring their stacking skills!
There looked to be a lot of chat and people-watching going on in amongst the stalls bursting with produce. Ringing the outside there were stalls with everything from honey to meat to clothes – Candice and I bought our signature flamingo hats there once we realised quite how fierce the Croatian sun felt!
Later in our explorations, we also wandered into the Peškarija, Split’s fish market, where fresh off the boat seafood sat in shady piles. If you’re a bit squeamish, you might want to skip the next couple of pics – personally I found the glinting scales quite beautiful!
Climb high above Split
If you’ve got a head for heights, don’t miss the climb up the winding stairs inside the historic Cathedral of St Dominus. Parts of the building date back to 305 AD… let’s just stop and take that in for a second! The structure was built as the mausoleum for Emperor Diocletian and gives the Cathedral the claim to being the oldest non-renovated cathedral in the world.
Maybe don’t look down?!
With 360 degree views over Split, the Cathedral’s bell-tower gives you the perfect spot to admire the contrasting orange roofs against the blues of the sea and sky. It’s also fun to peek down on the amazing architecture of the city centre.
The amazing Vestibul seen from the Cathedral… check it out from below
Walk through Split’s history
You’ll never go wrong with following your nose in the centre of Split, although, like us, you might have to double-back a few times, as there’s plenty of gorgeous but dead-end alleys! While you’re wandering, you’ll see sights like the Vestibul (above), part of the original entry-hall to the emperor’s palace. You’ll also find sun-soaked squares, catacombs and temples, and one of my favourite parts – locals getting on with life amongst the history.
Eat delicious Croatian cusine
If you’ve only got time for one lunch or dinner in Split, may I humbly recommend Mazzgoon? We were initially attracted by the beautiful terrace, but the hilarious service and amazing food won my heart. I shared the Tećada, a traditional fish stew with fish, mussels and prawns which our waiter rightly predicted would make everyone else jealous. The pasta twists, just the right side of al dente, balanced the peppery tomato sauce and mouth-watering fresh seafood. Plus, look at this beautiful spot!
A couple more Split tips…
- It’s definitely not essential to stay inside the city walls, and you’ll save a bunch of money if you don’t. Our first Air Bnb was just outside, next to the Green market, which was amazing. When we came back after our sailing week, we stayed north of the city near Park Mladeži. It was less than 20 minutes down-hill walk to the city, with taxis and buses readily available to take us back up the hill when we needed.
- You can also potentially save some cash by flying into Zadar and busing down the coast
- Even if you’ve not got an epic sailing trip booked, it’s still very easy to visit some of the gorgeous islands near Split by ferry, either for the day or overnight. I highly recommend gorgeous Vis and Hvar!
Have you visited Split? What was your favourite part?
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