I time-travelled in Bath.  One minute I was back in Roman times, exploring the aqueducts and foundations of the Roman baths.  The next I was in Regency England, experiencing life in the time of Jane Austen.  Then I was very firmly in the present day, admiring the views over the city from the most fashionable address, the Royal Crescent.  I loved discovering a different era around every corner!

Bath Abbey

Bath Abbey sits proudly in the city’s centre, acting as an easy signpost to other attractions such as the Roman Baths and Sally Lunn shop, as well as a beautiful sight in its own right.  The ladder of angels (above) that climbs up its West Front is a unique detail that apparently came to the Bishop in a dream.  Construction began on the Abbey in 1499, but was interrupted by King Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries, meaning it was not finished until the early 17th century.

Sally Lunn’s Famous Buns

It’s probably illegal to leave Bath without trying one of the “world famous” Sally Lunn buns.  A deliciously light, brioche-type bun, I would say it’s somewhere between the buns that I would normally think of, and a very light bread.  At Sally Lunn’s house, supposedly one of the oldest in Bath, these delights are served sweet or savoury and warm out of the oven.  There are tables on three floors, so although it might look like a bit of a wait, the turnover is fast.  I tried the toasted sandwich club – it was huge and very tasty!

Jane Austen Centre

While it won’t be every one’s cup of tea or Sally Lunn bun, I thoroughly enjoyed the little Jane Austen Centre.  Housed in a building very similar to the one she lived at for a few months, it focuses on the writer’s five years living and socialising in Bath.  After being talked through a basic life of Jane, including her writing and family, we were free to wander the exhibits discussing everything from life in Bath to the political landscape of Regency England.  My favourite was, of course, dressing up in period costumes – and learning how to get a proposal of marriage with just your eyes and the smallest flutter of a fan!

The Royal Crescent

The Royal Crescent is regarded as one of the most iconic streets in England, as it is a spectacular example of Georgian design.  High on a hill overlooking the city, I can see why it was the most in-demand of addresses.  When we visited it was home to a busy festival and plenty of people enjoying the sunny spot.

The Roman Baths

Humans have been pilgrimaging to the hot-spring waters at Bath since the time of the Celts, with one account speaking of a shrine at the site in 800 BC.  When the Romans invaded Britain, they erected their own temple to the goddess of the waters, whom they called Minerva, and over the course of 300 years constructed a bathing complex.

A mask of Minerva, and pieces of the temple

The Roman Baths are believed to have been destroyed in the sixth century, and redevelopment did not properly begin again until the 16th century.  The current complex was largely constructed from the end of the 1800s, when the springs experienced a resurgence of popularity both as a restorative cure and an opportunity for socialising.  Now you can wander around the pump rooms, explore the terraces around the baths, and even drink some of the water – supposedly an aid to remaining young!  The water was slightly brackish and metallic-tasting, but if it means slowing ageing I’d happily try some each day!

The spring overflow

Kate and I looking very happy to have sampled eternal youth

The cold circular pool with coins glinting in the low light

The sacred spring, where water bubbles up at a temperature of 46C

Bath Buns

In the interests of research we decided it was only fair that we sample the Bath Bun as well.  A much denser treat than the Sally Lunn, this is much more what I think of as a ‘true bun’, and was delicious served warm with currants and crushed sugar, and loads of tea.

Mr Darcy and the ladies out for an afternoon stroll?

Our tummies full and our eyes wide from Bath’s many sights, our last stop was a wander down to the River Avon for views of the Pulteney Bridge and the Parade Gardens, before jumping on the train back to London content.

Bits & Pieces

Bath is (or should be) a two-hour train journey from central London – unfortunately when we visited trains were severely delayed, limiting our exploration time a bit.  However it was easy to wander around and we saw plenty in our time there – it’s a great choice for a weekend away, or even just a day like we had

Sally Lunn buns are around £4 – £8 depending on whether you try sweet or savoury.  For more information click here

Entry to the Jane Austen Centre is £8 for an adult, and you’ll have the opportunity to watch a movie of Regency-period reenactments, hear about Jane’s history, and explore the Centre

Tickets to the Roman Baths are a little pricier at around £14 for an adult, but you do get a free and very detailed audio-guide, including commentary by the fabulous Bill Bryson

 Have you visited somewhere that felt like you were time-travelling?